Day 6 (Boxing Day)

Loch Leven 08:15 Boxing Day

We had a tight schedule to complete on Boxing Day. As yet I hadn't had time to go through the Glen Coe Range, so that was priority number one for me at first light. It wasn't strictly in the itinerary, but I had been through the pass once in a rush back in February and wanted to go back. Desperately.

Jim, as the ever suffering photography widow, was also up at  'zero crack sparrow fart' so we could head out and I could try and catch something, (hopefully). Being up pre-dawn at the Invercoe Caravan campsite was amazing and there aren't many places I have seen thus far that will have such great modern facilities as well as that fantastic feeling that you are experiencing one of the most beautiful parts of Scotland. Stepping out of the Campervan to this view and surround by huge peaks behind me was really one of the heights of the trip. It was one of those moments where you think 'Yep, this is why I am doing all this'.

After showers, dog pee duty etc we headed east, pretty much in the opposite direction we were meant to be travelling, but what the heart wants... well you know the rest. I LOVE taking photographs, as most of you know. But more than that, I love seeing things and experiencing them. Often (more often than I care to admit) I just can't get a photo that justifies what I have seen with my own eyes. Sometimes it's better to just enjoy it than stressing so much to try to capture it and this was one of those mornings. I was trying too hard. Trying to anticipate the next great view or the perfect exposure for the given circumstance, where we should stop or what vantage point I had. Basically the landscape was changing every second and I needed to stop and just take it all in. Was I frustrated? YES. Big time. But if I can't show something in it's full glory I won't. I'm not infallible, I can't take the perfect shot every time and if I can't get it right, I won't show it. All I will say is that Glen Coe and my experiences of it have always been nothing but breathtaking. No photo will ever replace that feeing of being there, so I would honestly say if you have the chance to visit - do it.

The roadside waterfall at the Glen Coe Pass

Being with someone for a long time means that you experience a lot of things together. Whilst Jim the 'Grumpy Old Man' as I have painted him often, is perhaps not on the same artistic wavelength as myself, he's certainly an absolute stalwart for understanding why I am out there trying to capture it. If I pull over because I've seen a ray of light, or a(nother) waterfall that I like, he will always be the first one to make the tea and settle the dogs whilst I am out the door with the camera. I can't fault his loyalty. Many of my captures on this trip involve me looking over my shoulder to the poor bloke sat in the camper watching me drag my camera down a gully or up a heather ridden glen to get something I like the look of. This happened on the way back to Ballachulish as I stopped many times to try and capture something or more accurately, everything that I liked.

It certainly adds a feeling of haste when someone is waiting for you to finish and rushing is something I don't like doing so far as photography is concerned! Jim was his usual self after I shuffled back to the van trying to escape the rain that had suddenly appeared, grabbing a tea towel from the side of the sink and desperately trying to dry off my camera and lens. 'Don't use the tea towel!! It's dry!!' - yes hon, the 50p tea towel is my big concern rather than the £4000 soaking wet camera and lens in my hands. That's Jim for ya though!

The early part of the morning was fairly cloudy with misty rain, then as we were making our way back to Glen Coe Village suddenly the clouds broke and an amazing blue sky started to appear and the sun began to shine down on the landscape. It was a fantastic scene, the transformation from the dull grey days and rain that we had experienced so far on the trip to vibrant colours and clear crisp views lifted us both. In retrospect I think we both agree that this was one of the best days of the trip - amazing what a bit of sunshine can do to spirits.

Looking back towards the Invercoe Caravan Park over Loch Leven.

  
Driving through to Fort William and our next stop at Spean Bridge was great. Christmas music was still playing on the radio, if you are ever in that part of the world I would highly recommend Nevis Radio - I'm not sure where they get their songs from but it was hilarious. I had a few stops along the way when things caught my eye. Spean Bridge was one of the only places that Jim put on his definite places to visit list. We have both been before, never on a such a beautiful day however. The Commando Bar and museum was the next stop with Jim enjoying a wee dram whilst I sipped my tea.

The Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge in all it's glory.

Jim at the Commando Bar museum.

We took our time at the memorial and garden, even on a bright day it is a solemn place and there was a steady stream of visitors, mostly foreign tourists, although a few who had come to pay their respects as we had on Boxing Day. We received some sad news at the Commando Bar that one of the owners had passed away suddenly and the staff were understandably very shocked. They were fantastic however, opening the museum for us, serving us and being very helpful even in the awful circumstances.

Midday was approaching and it felt like we had already done a good days sight seeing, but I wanted to get nearer to Mallaig and our Touring Park stop for the evening before sun down. I had only sent an email on Boxing Day in the hope that we could find somewhere with an electric hook up but nevertheless Sunnyside Croft Touring Park had emailed me back welcoming us for the night. We set off along the A830 (the road to the Isles) towards the Glenfinnan Monument and Viaduct which was another place on my 'to visit' list.

Panorama of Glenfinnan

HDR of Glenfinnan Monument

One of the surprising things has been the colours of Scotland, even in the bleak Winter. I was expecting dull brown, but the evergreens and even some of the reds from the autumn were still lingering on. It's a breath taking country at any time of the year.

Sunnyside Croft Touring site toilets from their website

We pulled into the deserted site north of Arisaig Village and had our first welcome from an actual real live person rather than a notice board. The lady was lovely, explaining everything and showing me around the facilities. WOW. I mean WOW, it had just been refurbished and looked like a brand new leisure centre. It was pretty dark when we had finished setting up so I hope they don't mind me sharing some photos from the website - the toilets were immaculate.

The winds were really howling again by now and a few times we were both yanked out of the Motorhome by the door catching the wind, missing the steps completely and wondering if your arm is still in it's socket!

Since they had such a great washing facilities, we decided to start a load of washing, mainly towels etc, our lack of experience began to show again when we assessed our change supply. We had enough money to wash the clothes but were a 'little short' on the drying phase. Not wanting to disturb the owners we had to take our very heavy and wet load back to the van. Certainly a windy night was in store for us all as the van was noticeably rocking and rolling by 9pm and thoughts turned to the early morning ferry to Skye and if it would still be running. Fingers crossed!

Fay x

http://commando.speanbridgehotel.co.uk/
http://www.sunnysidetouringsite.co.uk/

     

Day 5 (Christmas Day \0/) Invercoe

Molly seeing what Santa brought, Dobby not impressed and
looking for the next one.

So here it is, Christmas day. Or anti-Christmas Day. Santa had visited during the night so the dogs had their stockings filled to the brim, Jim and I must have been too naughty this year. Cheeky git drank the Sherry and ate the mince pie though. Dogs seemed pretty happy with their loot and we decided to have a lazy breakfast, no rushing out today before 9am!

Now a word of warning that you may find the next section disturbing. If you wear a woolly hat for an extended period with high necked coats and hoodies there is a tendency for you hair to become one huge ball of matted mess at the back of your neck. Desperately needing help with the problem I had to turn to Jim who spent five minutes brushing my hair like some kind of serial killer. It really was quite creepy. 'Maybe we should shave it all off?'. We both agreed that bald would be better than repeating the experience.

So Jim pulled out his skills again and I returned from the shower block to this fantastic sight. Nowt like egg & bacon sarnies on Xmas morning. After devouring breakfast I went outside for a quick wonder down to the front of the site at Loch Leven. I stopped for a second and took a few photos and realised I was smiling. This is what it's all about, it really was brilliant to stand and look out over the water, hills behind me and feel like I hadn't got a care in the world. Clearly I wasn't the only one as a fellow Motorhomer with his dog and ipad sat on the bench and we both exchanged a knowing 'Merry Christmas!!'.

The best thing about all this is not having the pressure to have a 'great' Christmas. It's almost forced upon you by the media and advertisers that it should be a wonderful time and you must conform to the clichés buy loads of gifts and spend a shed load of money or you'll have a shit experience. We didn't exchange presents at all, Jim bought me a lens back in September that pretty much covered Christmas, Valentines Day and my Birthday! I wanted to get out and do a walk on Christmas Day, I had originally looked at Blackwater Reservoir but it was a very long walk and I wasn't sure that The Dobster would make it, so I settled on Steall Falls instead. For those of you that don't know the falls are just along from the Ben Nevis Range and were featured in the Harry Potter movies (mainly the Quiddich stadium aerial shots) so a walk and something to photograph seemed like a no brainer.

Jim peering out the window!

The road to the start of the lower falls walk was absolutely breath-taking and I think we only saw one other car the entire drive. I was stopping constantly to take pictures and the dull grey day began to brighten up a little which just made everything that little bit more spectacular. It's one of those roads that you see on Top Gear but never seem to find yourself, but this time however it was all mine to burn up in my erm, Fiat Escape Motorhome. Towards the carpark the road becomes more and more narrow with just a single track and passing places, crossing some weight restricted wooden bridges that looked like they were made of plywood, so I started to get a little concerned that we wouldn't be able to turn around. No need to worry however at the carpark at the end is quite large with bins etc. and an obvious walking start point. I was surprised at how many cars were in the car park, given we had hardly seen a soul on the road, looking around however it was mostly foreign tourists, either the Sherpa's Winter break or al-Qaeda Christmas training camp. Not sure which. (I jest, I jest!!!)

Easy one boot walk according to walkhighlands :/

Now I have been using the Walkhiglands pages a lot whilst planning this trip and I'm not sure who writes the reviews but I'm beginning to think it's some ex-SAS fella who carries crampons and ice axes with him at all times. Grading this walk as a one boot 'Easier walks, mostly on well defined paths, with no special difficulties.' means he clearly didn't do it with heavy camera equipment and two rather difficult dogs, one that wants to pull you through it as if it's the Dog Sled World championships and the other who thinks a strenuous walk is to her food bowl and back. I certainly wouldn't say this is an 'easy' walk and whilst the path is clearly defined, slippery rock formations and sometimes having to walk through fast flowing water falls next to a sheer drop made things rather tricky. If you have any sort of disability, are elderly or with small children I certainly wouldn't recommend it. The sign was a dead give-away at the beginning.

The 'clear well defined path' slippery as hell with 100 ft drop lol

10 minutes in and the strain was beginning to show - Jim clearly not believing I had done any research whatsoever. I was getting annoyed too, in parts I needed two hands to navigate the rock formations and the sound of your £1400 lens banging off a rock face is soul destroying. However, we persevered on. After about 25 minutes we rounded a corner and got our first glimpse of what all the effort had been for. A valley came out of nowhere and stretched along into the distance with the falls directly ahead. The path became much easier and aside from the odd water trench that you have to step over (or go around in Dobby's case) we began to enjoy ourselves. As we got closer to the falls I got my gear out ready to take some slow exposure shots and Jim let the dogs off their leads to explore. It was only then that we noticed all of the broken beer and wine bottles that previous campers had left strewn around the place.

What a total disgrace to come to somewhere so beautiful and treat it with such disrespect. Had to tether the dogs again for fear of them cutting themselves and manoeuvre carefully around the broken bottles to setup the tripod. I'm sure thousands of photographers have done this before me, I have even done this a few times in the past and clearly didn't learn from it, but I set up the tripod and then looked at the bottom of my camera to find that the base plate wasn't there. In fact it was happily attached to my other camera in the Motorhome. Argh!    

Took some rubbish shots with the camera lent on my bag and them the rain came in as if to punish me further. It was pretty windy and not a good idea to be wet and cold for a long time so after the obligatory 'Jim with dogs at attraction' shot we headed back. The cable bridge has been fixed since the summer but Jim refused to go on for a shot and the van was calling with warmth, soup and beef with Wensleydale sandwiches.

Snug as a bug in a rug!!!

The way back was easier as Molly was less excited and it was  a greater percentage of uphill rocky bits, unfortunately the rain started coming down hard so we were all soaked by the time we got back. I can safely say the dogs were absolutely knackered and didn't even stay awake to beg for a bit of beef. The wonder sacks in force again!! The worrying thing is that people were arriving to do the walk (that at least takes an hour with no stopping for photos) about 30 mins before sundown wearing jeans and fashion coats, some in daps. I'm not sure why these walks don't have signs advising walking times and appropriate clothing, surely that would be cheaper than CASEVACing someone from a mountain side?!

I then drove into Fort William to grab a quick cuppae with Fiona who I went to Dundee College with who was spending Christmas with her Brother in FW. Whistle stop tour of the van and then we headed back to Invercoe, I could see the potential of a good sunset and after 4 days of rain I wasn't wrong!

Loch Linnhe

Went back to the campsite for some Christmas Day Pizza and Christmas Curry. A really early cosy night and that was the day done!

Fay xx

P.S. Remind me about Nevis Radio tomorrow as it's simply hilarious.

P.P.S. I was just kidding about the dark skinned people being terrorists. A joke. I don't really believe all foreigners are bad. No twisted knickers necessary!

http://www.invercoe.co.uk/
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/steallfalls.shtml

Steall Falls

Bad weather approaching

Cable Bridge

Day 4 (Christmas Eve) Invercoe

Jim's territory

Clear territory boundaries have been marked out by day 4. Jim occupies the rear half of the van from the kitchen backwards. My domain is the table area and front seats. I suppose it was always going to be the natural progression of things, Jim leaning back on what he knows (being a chef) and me, well, needing the desk for my Internet addiction and duty driver allocation.

Ben Nevis Range Gondola

Speaking of my Internet addiction, I really didn't know how bad it was until we started this trip. It's pretty much the first thing I get set up when we arrive at a new site - a connection with the outside world. So day 4 saw us leaving North Ledaig and making our way up to Glen Coe Village and our next campsite destination. We didn't stop there however as I wanted to take the Ben Nevis Range Gondola up Aonach Mor, Britain's only mountain Gondola, or so I'm told. Finding activities to do with the dogs has been challenging - I absolutely don't want to leave them locked up in the Motorhome for hours on end since it's their holiday too, so I was pleased and quite surprised I might add, to learn that dogs could ride on the Gondola. How they would react was another thing entirely!

Very cold view point

Closing in on this part of the world it was clear that it was choice destination for other Motorhomer and Caravan tuggers. Having only seen one other Motorhome on the entire trip, we began to pass them more frequently and I got my first wave, which as Jim will testify to, resulted in far more excitement than was actually warranted. I turned the flashing snowman on as I sign that we were Christmas Motorhomers - like anyone cares!

Nevis Range Centre

During our journey to Fort William things got a bit weird. After Gangnam Style had been played on the radio Jim proceeded to give me a lesson in pop culture - explaining what exactly 'Gangnam Style' was. I must admit I didn't know prior to this and he then started telling me about a fish song that was going to be a Christmas hit and asking if I had heard it? Has the earth come off it's axis? Am I being lectured in pop culture by a 51 year old grumpy Geordie fella? When did I stop knowing these things? Am I now the Gran that smiles and nods like I know what people are talking about at group gatherings until some kind soul pipes up in a loud voice 'WE ARE TALKING ABOUT A NEW SONG IN THE CHARTS LOVE, DON'T WORRY YOURSELF, IT'S A BIT LIKE THAT MACARENA ONE, YOU REMEMBER THAT DON'T YOU?' Complete with reassuring pat on the knee.

Fort William Whisky Shop

FML.

After the new resolution was made in my head to watch more MTV, we arrived at the Ben Nevis Range. A lot busier on Christmas Eve than I had anticipated, pockets of foreigners on a Christmas tour, but a few die hard skiers and snowboards heading up. Even the Ski-school were getting some hours in, on what in my eyes was pretty poor skiing conditions. I keep on top of the Cairngorms, Lecht and Glencoe resort updates and I think the Nevis range were really making good of a bad situation! We've had some snow on higher ground since so hopefully it has improved.

To my Surprise the dogs jumped straight in the Gondola, onto the seats and looked out of the windows all the way up. I'm sure Molly would have made a good Mountain rescue dog, somewhere to release all that daily energy, I don't think she would ever give up looking for someone in distress! At the top we took the path to the viewpoint, which I'm sure in clear conditions is breath taking - the driving rain and melting snow with added fog whilst on the path sodden with a steady trickle of melt water made things pretty boggy and horrible underfoot. It was to be honest a chore. Jim's complete lack of technical ability when it comes to my android phones meant that the photo took five attempts and was ultimately abandoned. I may yet get proof I was on this trip - not guaranteeing it though.

Too cool for School!

On the way back the dogs left their special 'deposit' as they have in so many of the wonderful places in Scotland and there was a two minute debate about whose turn it was to carry the wee treasure back to base camp. Jim immediately told me he couldn't take his hands out of his gloves as the medication he is on affects his circulation and continued straight past it, very quickly. My last memory of the Nevis range is carrying two small bags of warm steaming poo in the driving sleet whilst they all left me at least 100 metres behind. Dog owners need never waste money on hand warmers that's all I can say.

Ben Nevis Range Mountain Bike championship start point.

After a few photos at the Mountain Bike Championship start point it was back to the van for soup and a sandwich before we hit Fort William for some shopping. I must admit, it was nice not to be part of the crazy panic buying brigade and we just strolled around in no hurry at all. Jim's NO Christmas rule was about to be tested however.

Since I was little we have always had roast beef sandwiches on crusty bread on Xmas Eve. When Mum died it has become a ritual for me that I don't think I'll ever break, but it went against my promise to Jim that we would have an anti-Christmas Christmas. After a little pouting the beef joint went in the trolly, along with lots of booze and a few hidden things for Santa and Rudolph (like anyone is going to make a scene at the checkout!)

Roast beef sarnies - love you Jim!

I bought Jim the best T-shirt ever and then we headed back for roast beef sarnies and cosy Motorhome (with one or two gasses, sorry, litres of Baileys). I honestly am having the best time, love stepping outside and seeing the dramatic surroundings with no pressure to be having fun because it's Christmas. What would we be doing otherwise? Sat at home watching Xmas telly. No matter what Jim says, the memories that we have made in 5 days (good, bad and hilarious) we will both always remember - that's what matters at the end of the day.

Jim went to bed fairly early and I put the dogs stockings up for Santa. Really pleased with how well they have taken to this trip. I love Dawgs I do!!

Waiting for Santa!!!

Invercoe Campsite, overlooking Loch Leven

 

Pressies under tree

Baileys coffee, Xmas Eve!

Day 3 - Oban & North Ledaig

Ardlui caravan park

Pool hustle winnings

Despite the large quantities of alcohol the previous night, we were both awake by 7.30am and could immediately hear that it was going to be another cracking Scottish day! The only downside to the rain is that I take less photos, it doesn't bother me in the slightest otherwise and I would take rain in the winter over midgies and masses of tourists in the summer ANY day of the week. Toilet blocks at Ardlui were more like what I had been expecting and wouldn't have looked out of place in a military camp. Hot fast flowing water again however, as well as free hairdryers and to be honest you don't need much more. Basic but more than adequate.

Jim and I had made a pool game bet the night before about who was going to walk the dogs and make the tea and breakfast in the morning (I don't know why he bothers after 6 pints and having forgotten his glasses) so I had a nice lie in bed whilst he layered up to head out into the wild weather.

Awesome energy - Falls of Falloch

On his return I tucked into my poached eggs on toast and generally had a rather smashing time. We headed off camp at around 9am again and to our first stop to de-energise the dogs at the Falls of Falloch. It's a pretty short walk from the carpark, we all got a bit wet and the sheer force of this weeks rain was clear to see as thousands of gallons of water cascaded over the rocks at a staggering rate.

Wet specimens at the Falls of Falloch

Seal enjoying what has been a constant on the trip so far!

Castle Kilchurn

On the way to Oban I wanted to stop off at Kilchurn castle on Lochawe, there is a great little convienience store and carpark opposite the Railway station so we walked down to the shore to get a look at the castle that was destroyed by lightening in 1760 and was home to the Campbells. Amazingly the rain stopped and it started to brighten up, maybe luck was with us today! Dobby has settled into the Motorhome lifestyle like a dream, she sits on their allocated bed no bother, Molly still can't stop being constantly excited, barking at passers by or wanting to run out of the door whenever we go in and out. She seems to know when we settle down in the evening that it's time to chill, so maybe she will improve once she gets used to the routine. From Lochawe we headed into Oban for a quick look around and then over the Connel Bridge to the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary to the north.

Jim stroking sharks and getting a rollocking.

All aboard!! ding ding!!

We have a bit of a thing for otters so I was looking forward to it. I used my Sky rewards 2 for 1 offer and even without paperwork, which in my rush I had forgotten  the staff took my word for it which was a really nice thing to do and saved us £13. The reception staff may have been great but the chap giving the 1.30pm talk at the 'touch pool' wasn't so friendly. Now back in the day you used to be able to stoke and feed the stingrays and fish so I was encouraging Jim to touch a shark for the photo when a loud voice shouted across the room 'don't put you hand in the water'. Oooops. Maybe put a sign up then you grumpy git. Aside from that we had a great time, lots of laughs and cute seals/otters and Jim even scratched around the distillery which I had planned for afterwards (perhaps suffering a little after last night?).

Otter from the Sanctuary

Amazing pitch - zero facilities.

We turned back to North Lediag caravan park and were glad to be there before dark, in fact a lovely sunset broke through the clouds to welcome us. The site was deserted and there was a leaflet outside the reception explaining we could find our own pitch in the allocated areas and post the money through the site office before we left! There was only one other Motorhome on the three acre site and we parked a few bays away from them and started to get setup for the night. Jim offered to make the refreshments whilst I braved the strong winds to hook us up. All sorted and I started to take a few photos as Jim knocked on the window saying the power had gone off. I rechecked the points and couldn't see any problem so decided to troubleshoot using the supply for the pitch next door. Jim's thumb appears at the window to indicate success so we move the van to the adjacent pitch and re-hook up presuming it's a dodgy electric box. A minute later and Jim appears saying the power has just gone off again. Oh dear. I try the first plug for a second time and nothing, We check all the trip switches but all is fine there too. This is where newbie motorhomers have a problem.

Panorama from North Ledaig caravan park.

Due to lack of experience and knowledge we just didn't have a clue what to do next and I decided to call the out of hours site number hoping they turned the power on remotely. The chap asked if we were using a kettle and said the power was only 10amp so if we had too much on it would trip the box (who knew? Well everyone except us seemingly!) We now moved to a THIRD pitch and still no joy, tempers began to fray at this point and we look up to see the chap from the only other motorhome striding towards us. God only knows what they were thinking watching us from their window playing musical pitches around the site!!!

As luck would have it (and as my mate Angie would say 'fall in shit, come up smelling of roses') he was not only a seasoned pro Motorhomer, but a sparky too! In minutes he had got his voltage checker out and re-tripped all the switches in the bank. Turns out our heating was on the highest setting and with the kettle it was too much. Have been boiling with gas ever since!

Thank you Stevie you wee star!!!

We spent the evening a bit scared to turn anything on and listening to the rain clatter the roof - it's quite therapeutic and since there was no internet on the site we both read. We didn't see anyone from the site at all, shop and reception were closed and they operated a trust policy (did answer the phone however). This is fine but the toilet blocks were also shut which was a bit annoying, we had vowed to not use the motorhome toilet but had no choice!! Jim made ham pasta which was lovely and we got a reasonably early night. Note to self dropping kindle down the side of the bed results in it falling into the access bay at the bottom of the van that you have to go outside to reach!

Finished the day wearing a big smile, dare I say I'm actually really enjoying this trip?!!
   
Fay x

http://www.ardlui.com/
http://www.northledaigcaravanpark.co.uk/
http://www.sealsanctuary.co.uk/oban1.html
http://www.loch-awe.com/

Connel Bridge outside of Oban

Zoidberg from Futurama :)

Exploring a new site

Boat slip in Oban